Visiting the Shakespeare & Company Cafe | Best Coffee Shops in Paris
Paris offers many, many different types of cafes for its visitors. From modern and craft to ancient and traditional—and sometimes, some shops find that very sweet spot in between.
That’s what you’ll find with the Shakespeare & Company cafe. Step inside for yourself—here’s what you’ll expect.
Shakespeare & Co Paris: a look into the history
Shakespeare & Company is a bookseller you’ll find in a few destinations all over the world, but in Paris, it’s been on the Left Bank for 70 years.
Since 1951, the Shakespeare and Company bookstore has stood in front of the Notre Dame Cathedral in the 4th Arrondissement of Paris.
You’ll find the bookstore and cafe at 37 rue de la Bûcherie; two rustic-looking gems stacked inside a 17th-century monastery.
The bookstore was founded by George Whitman, an American who “liked to pretend he was the sole surviving monk, saying…
‘In the Middle Ages, each monastery had a frère lampier, a monk whose duty was to light the lamps at nightfall. I’m the frère lampier here now. It’s the modest role I play.’”
Whitman so named Shakespeare and Company in honor of its iconic predecessor, a bookstore owned by Sylvia Beach in the 20s and 30s that was closed during the Nazi occupation in France.
Beach’s bookshop was a hangout for the Lost Generation writers: F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway, James Joyce, and friends. And with her blessing and support, George Whitman carried on her legacy.
The result is the creative and collaborative space we have today—where dreamers and lovers of books can come to find ideas—solace.
And frankly, what combination is better than books and coffee?
The Coffee Shop: what to expect
I guess it’s a testament to the tasty food and drink that I couldn’t be bothered (or even consider the thought) to take a photo before devouring my treats.
The shop is tightly compacted—cozy, as it might be advertised in a pamphlet—but cozy does fit.
With good music, smells of coffee and fresh pastries and other bites, there is a comfort to the small space.
Mismatched little chairs and tables waltz idly about, tucked in nicely.
The people inside sit alone or with others, often accompanied by a book from the shop next door. They’ll read, they’ll write, they’ll chat and sit back for a while.
The line begins out the door—the space is too tiny for queuing within. You may (frequently) have to fight off petition scammers while you wait.
Once it’s your turn to step into the safety of the shop, you’ll have to think quickly to sort out your order—it only takes two steps to reach the counter, and the line only got longer once you arrived.
The staff is intimidatingly cool with furrowed brows from their hard work, but they’re usually nice when you are.
what to order:
I’ve never once tried something I didn’t like at Shakespeare & Co. Though, I will admit that I’ve only tried a variety of pastries and drinks and never a proper meal—which they offer.
For the fare, they partner with Bob’s Bake Shop; you’ll find the likes of lemon pie, cinnamon rolls, bagels with avocado, salads and more; many of their bites are vegetarian and well-marked as such.
Drink-wise, they use beans from Parisian craft roasters Café Lomi to make your usual espresso beverages. Though they do have some more unique choices, like a turmeric latte, with options for plant-based milk (though they don’t carry almond milk). You’ll also find fresh-squeezed juice, smoothies, and teas.
I always found myself taking their incredible vegan cookie, double chocolate glazed donut, or homemade granola to accompany my oat-milk cappuccino or americano. I recommend each.
After you place your order, you’ll typically be directed to wait outside, opposite where you queued. From there, you may sit at one of the few spots indoors if available, or you’ll find several seating options outside (though also often full).
Each treat is served on a tray with recycled brown paper that prompts,
“who would play you in the movie of your life?”
And
“what’s the worst book you’ve ever read?”
As well as several other questions meant to provoke conversation.
While you will find people working on laptops here—as I did a few times courtesy of my hotspot—they don’t have WiFi.
But with the books, and people, and Paris, and the world at large all accessible within this little shop, you won’t miss it too dearly.
I always sat inside when I could, preferably by the window to watch the scenes of life unfold from my little haven.
My view from the window inside:
Though you can’t see it (our views are opposite), on the other side of the pedestrian walkway in front of the shop, two girls stand by a gate; leaves intertwine with metal. The girls are wrapped in scarves and long coats with trendy Adidas sneakers on foot—you can see their breaths when they laugh. One girl feeds the other a bite of sandwich, the other pinches her companion’s cheek.
Just in front of me—only a window between us—a young woman peeks above her notebook at the picnic-style tables around her. Equipped with a pen in hand, she tells her story—her left hand blocking the words past. I feel like we’re kindred spirits.
To my right, a woman holds a giant map of the city, deciding what’s next—
Students, tourists, and other dreamers fill the space.
We can’t help but glance—now and then—at the giant Notre Dame Cathedral in front of us. Our Lady, still under construction. The City of Light is still rebuilding after some years under a veil. But it’s a bright day today. The mood in the city is finding itself again.
Photo by Alexandra Michele.
As I write, smells of warm cinnamon fill the air. In between moments, my mug taps my lips, and rich, floral coffee fills my mouth. It’s a sweet mood.
Traveling alone, I find myself struck once again by the privilege to glance into the little worlds of the people around me: to see how they move in accordance—how they flow so naturally with one another, longing to overlap. And when they do—sparks!
I guess this is a dreamy post, but man, this place makes me dreamy.